travel

Nov 29, 2011

Hong Kong: Pizza and Martinis

A decadant feast

Martinis!

On Saturday night, we found a lovely place that served pizza and martinis! In Luzhou, we can find neither. (Well, the Western restaurant has something they call pizza, but it isn’t. “You can call it a ham pie,” says Peter.) Spasso is actually located in a giant mall in Kowloon, but Ruby Tuesdays it isn’t. When we asked if they had olives and could they make us dirty martinis, our server asked us, “How dirty?” which was music to our ears; She knew there was a variable degree of dirtiness to a martini!

Pizza at Spasso
The pizza was not the best pizza, but it was very good pizza. It fit the bill for us. Also, It was quite nice to have some real wine. A night of indulgences was just want we needed! Or, wanted, I guess.
Look at the lights
This was the view from the patio. You’re looking back at Hong Kong Island.
We're actually here, in Hong Kong!
Here’s us, with our backs to the view. We had a lovely meal, Spasso. Thanks!

Nov 28, 2011

Hong Kong: Kowloon and Tsim Sha Tsui

A beautiful day in the neighborhoods

On our third morning, we grabbed breakfast and took the ferry across the harbor.

Real English-style breakfast is available at 18 Grams
Check out our album of photos in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Kowloon and Tsim Sha Tsui are two neighborhoods on the island to the north of Hong Kong Island. Whereas on our side of things, the shopping seemed to be more high end (we had Max Azria, Louis Vutton, etc.), in TST, things were a little more casual. I bought months and months worth of leave-in conditioner, and we browsed Tom Lee for an hour.

The streets were wide and crowded, somewhat like Fifth Avenue in midtown. Indian men were hawking fake designer watches every couple of feet, with very few takers.

After shopping, we hit up the Hong Kong Science Museum. I know science museums are usually for kids, but I love them. Tickets for both Peter and I cost HK$60, which is less than US$10. Attractions and public transportation are really cheap here.

Headless Emily at the Hong Kong science museum
Check out more photos of our trip to the Science Museum.

The museum’s special exhibit was on food science. They were sponsored by, or had the cooperation of - or something - McDonald’s and 7-Eleven. It was really weird to see those American brands splashed all over. Especially because the exhibit was put together by a Japanese institution.

Nov 28, 2011

Hong Kong’s Walk of Stars

A walk by the harbor

Bruce Lee on the Walk of Stars

The Hong Kong Walk of Stars is located in Tsim Sha Tsui. It’s not quite as fancy as the one in Hollywood, but there’s a plaque commemorating Hong Kong and Mainland movie stars, like Chow Yun-Fat, Maggie Cheung, Jet Li, etc. Some have the stars’ handprints, but many just have their name. I got the sense that it wasn’t really that big a deal.

In fact, as an attraction it’d be only alright if it wasn’t for its location: along the waterfront with a stunning view of the harbor and Hong Kong Island. We walked it at sunset, and it was gorgeous. We ran into many other people enjoying the view (and some joggers, even though this seems like it would be a crowded and annoying run).

Anyway, take a gander:

Hong Kong's waterfront Walk of Stars
Check out our slideshow of photos of the Walk of Stars.

Nov 24, 2011

Our first night in Hong Kong

Man, there are a lot of people here

Hong Kong street scene

Hong Kong reminded us a lot of New York in the best way. The population of Hong Kong is 90% Chinese, but still feels very international. The city is very walkable, and the public transportation is extremely user friendly. Oh yeah, and pretty much everyone speaks English. We were able to find foreign food (ie, non-Chinese) we were craving, as well as good beer and wine (non-existent in Luzhou). We found all the comforts of our old home with out having to go back across the world.

Our first night, it was raining, but we were back in a real city and we just had to get out there. We took the tram (which is more than 100 years old) down the busy main street by our hostel and got out and wandered through the districts of Central and Admirality. These were more businessy and sterile than where we were staying in Causeway Bay, which seemed a much younger, hipper, bustling area. So we bussed it back (that’s two modes of transport, if you’re keeping track) and wandered there.

There were shops upon shops and people upon people. Being a series of islands, the city is very vertical. You could find restaurants and shops on the tenth floors of buildings that didn’t look accessible to the public at all. Our first hostel was tucked away on the fourth and fifth floors of an unassuming-looking apartment building. It’s an extreme case of using the limited space you have however you can.

We were tired from travelling all day, so we packed it in and made it an early night. But something sparked: We were pretty sure we were going to like Hong Kong.

Nighttime in the city on our first night in Hong Kong
Our first night in Hong Kong was rainy and fun. Check out the full album.

Nov 24, 2011

The Hong Kong visa run

Fun with paperwork

Living in China entails a lot of paperwork. I don’t write about it often, because it’s kind of boring, but we’ve had at least one major form to fill out/file/correct and refile per week since June. We’ve been pretty meticulous about things, and had the help of our hosts, but every once in a while there are mistakes made that need correcting. One such incident resulted in me writing a letter to the police that I was very sorry in my heart (the language is really like that!) that I misfiled something, and I won’t do it again.

But so the occasion for our trip to Hong Kong was actually to fix something with Peter’s visa - that for whatever reason was not fixable in country (Hong Kong is not a fully integrated part of China). And this is what we did with most of our Friday.

Here’s the thing about visiting the embassy, both here and in New York. Go first thing in the morning, with all the paperwork you think you need already filled out. I don’t know why everyone doesn’t do this, but it seems like they don’t. If things go smoothly, then you’re finished for the day, without having to wait on a four-hour line. If things do not go smoothly, then you have time to fix them.

Unfortunately for us, things did not go as smooth as they could have. Our head teacher forgot to give us the forms from Peter’s physical in Chengdu that proved he was healthy enough to work. But, since we got there early, we had plenty of time to fix it. We went back to the hotel and called our boss. She emailed the forms over and we found a print shop where we could print them out. By this time, the embassy was closed for lunch and wouldn’t open again until two. You’d better believe that we were back right at two. But still, the wait for our number to come up was considerably longer than it had been in the morning.

This time: Success! We got our slip which said to come back Monday afternoon.

They told us to come around 3 pm, so we got there around 2:45 pm. There was a huge line waiting just to get into the embassy. Yikes! But, we consulted with the guard at the front; that line was for people dropping off applications. As we were picking up, we could go right in. As on Friday morning, there was no line, and we were out of there in 20 minutes.

And we’re one step closer to being permanent temporary residents of Luzhou.

Nov 21, 2011

Six

Number of modes of public transport taken in Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a really easy city to get around. And there are many ways to do it. On our short trip, we took:

  • Metro
  • Bus
  • Tram
  • Cable car
  • Light rail
  • Ferry boat

The only thing we missed was the light bus. We’ll have to go back …

Nov 20, 2011

A view of the harbor

And of a car park

Look at us, in Hong Kong

Hello! Hong Kong is beautiful! Behind us is the harbor and Hong Kong Island. And a car park.

Nov 20, 2011

Real western breakfast!

And Earl Grey tea

Breakfast

We’re having too much fun for blogging, but I promise a whole series of posts on our Hong Kong weekend. In the meantime, here’s the English breakfast we had this morning. Butter! Tea with milk! Baked beans! Salad!

Nov 18, 2011

Touching down in HK

A new city

Hong Kong at night

We’re in Hong Kong! It’s been a super hectic day and a half, but fun and awesome too. I’ll have more to say when I’m a little more rested.

Oct 24, 2011

Staying in Hong Kong and Shenzhen

Alisan Guest House and some seedy hotel

So the cheap way for us to get to HK is to fly to Shenzhen, the Chinese city that borders Hong Kong, and cross the border over land. On the way there, we took a bus from the Shenzhen airport to the center of the city. For those of you who don’t know (and two weeks ago, we didn’t), Hong Kong is a series of islands, one of them being Hong Kong Island. This is where we stayed, which along with Kowloon - the neighborhood north across the harbor - is what’s considered the city center.

We stayed in the Alisan Guest House, an establishment about which I cannot say enough good things. It was on the order of hostel living, so no frills, but super cheap and the staff was incredibly helpful. (And free wi-fi.) Would stay again!

Alisan Guest House

This was our room, bathroom and view. As you can see, quite small. But, here’s where service, service, service counts: They couldn’t accommodate us for the whole weekend, so they put us up in their monthly rentals at the same (quite cheap) rates.

Alisan 2

The room was much bigger, and the bathroom, specifically the shower, was the most western (and therefore most comfortable) experience we’ve had - including our own Luzhou bathroom situation. We just had to not be loud jerks, which we managed.

Our last night, we had to go back to Shenzhen because our flight left early the next morning. We actually took light rail from the Alisan to the China border in a neighborhood called Luoho, where we went through customs. From there, we walked to our hotel. We were two of very few non-Chinese making that boarder crossing, which worked in our favor, line-wise. The major travel groups cross at a different point, so my guess is that only savvy travelers try it on their own at Luoho. But it’s really so easy to figure out, and way cheaper than paying for the bus or ferry which walk you through the process.

Our hotel in Shenzhen was a little on the seedy side - it didn’t even occur to me to ask for a non-smoking room, but now I know that’s important

Seedy shenzhen hotel

Is that a round bed? Yes it is! Both the booking agent and the check-in person were sure to emphasize, “It’s a room with a round bed!” Sure! Whatever!